We are continuing our discussion about punchneedle embroidery. The last blog talked about the needle and fabric used. This blog will be about threads and hoops.
The thread most often used for punch needle is embroidery floss, particularly the 6 strand type. This allows you to separate the strands and use them in different size needles. (remember I said that punch needles come in different sizes, most often. for 1, 2-3, and 6 strands). I like using embroidery floss because it is the cheapest thread, comes in a wide variety of colors and is easy to obtain (plus it tends to be what I have for my other embroidery).
Different numbers of floss strands used.
Perle cotton can also be used. It will definitely make a bigger and more defined loop, plus it will have a satin looking sheen to it. Wool threads give a softer appearance and looks wonderfully if you are punching an animal figure. Silk or Rayon floss gives a definite satin look to the loops. And I have even used 2-ply acrylic yarn which gives a soft plush look and is used in a medium (or 2 stand) needle.
Depending on the size of your needle, you can try any type of yarn or thread. If it fits through the eye of the needle without snagging it, it will punch. I have used ordinary sewing thread and what I really like is metallic thread or floss. It won’t unravel like it would with regular embroidery because you are not pulling the entire length of the thread through the fabric.
Different threads I have tried and the different size needles (6-large, 3-medium, 1-small)
Hoops
Now for punchneedle to work the best you have to have the fabric as tight as it can be so it needs to be in some sort of a frame or hoop. Regular wood or spring ring embroidery hoops don’t work as well. They don’t hold the fabric taut and the fabric tends to loosen as you punch. If you have no other choice, you can wrap the inner ring of a wooden embroidery hoop with yarn and that will help grab the fabric you put in the hoop.
One hoop that is often used is called a lip hoop. There is a lip on the inner ring which helps the fabric to be stretched tightly in the hoop and not slip. Now it does leave a hoop mark (crease) on the fabric when you remove it from the hoop. That can often be ironed out.
lip hoop
A second hoop is called a fitted inner ring hoop also known as a tongue and groove hoop. The inner hoop has a raised area round the entire ring and it matches with a groove in the inside of the outer ring. When those two are fit together they hold the fabric tightly in place.
fitted inner ring hoop –inner hoop (or tongue part)
fitted inner ring hoop –inside outer hoop (or groove part)
A third hoop, or in this case a frame, is called a gripper frame. This is not like an adjustable hoop. It is often a wooden frame which has little gripper wires sticking out from it. It ‘grips’ the fabric which holds it in place. It is similar to what rug hookers use. It reminds me of the cotton carders used to separate cotton fibers for spinning.
So there are the different choices of thread and hoops you can use. Next week: Pumchneedle Embroidery: Technique- the dos and don’ts.
© 2018, 2021 Cheryl Fillion
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